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原住民傳統飲食的延續與市場調適以花蓮光復鄉馬太鞍阿美族為例 The Continuance of Aboriginal Cuisine and Market Adaptation An Example of the Vataan Amis of Hualien’s Guangfu Village
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| 作者 |
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李昭賢 |
| 學校系所 |
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國立東華大學族群關係與文化研究所 |
| 地點 |
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全臺 全部
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| 研究內容 |
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[ 摘要 ]
近十年台灣社會經濟改變，企業的出走，外勞的開放引進，原住民的工作
機會相對減少，就業率明顯下降。但在這一波經濟的變革中，政府大力倡導國內
觀光熱潮，交通的通連和便捷，人民生活一連串的變化，觀光客的擁入花蓮，各
式各樣的餐廳也開始興起，飲食也隨之有所改變。加上美國「麥當勞」資本主義
的襲捲之下，大量的生產，全球口味一致化，在地的食材或傳統菜餚的消失，全
球各國的飲食文化無一不被其侵略。人類開始省思回歸原始，崇尚自然生活的驅
使下，飲食文化也隨之興起「回歸自然」、「樂活」的信念，也在世界飲食的潮流
中進行的如荼如火，以強調自然，健康、簡單烹調原則。
在國內也開始被人重視及提倡自然養生風的熱潮，在這股熱潮中，原住民
的自然原始風味餐也獲的青睞。但是標榜取材在地化、自然、調味單純，烹調簡
易為原則的原住民飲食文化觀，正是當代人們追求自然、健康的最佳食譜；又加
上全球原住民文化運動的興起，部落的觀光也順勢發展。在族群融合的花蓮地區
原住民餐廳如何發展出飲食新風味，確實是一值得重視的新興研究領域。
2000 年政黨輪替後開始強調「本土化」，政府也舉辦多次的原住民飲食比
賽，甚至將之設為國宴的菜餚之一；自然養生風的熱潮，標榜自然野生的原住民
食材，是否還能保持其野生，還是因大量的需求而失去其「原味」植物；傳統的
飲食文化是否得以保存。
本文將探討阿美族原住民傳統的飲食及所在的生態環境與市場的調適。本
研究目的，將藉由對個案研究的同時探討對其所處的大環境下其傳統飲食和創新
的瞭解。本文的研究希望能了解以下的目標
1.阿美族傳統飲食的特色
2.阿美族飲食對現代之影響~養生健康概念
3.影響阿美族飲食文化的他族文化
[ 英文摘要 ]
In the past decade, Taiwanese society underwent large-scale economic changes. The exodus of industries to China and the introduction of foreign workers have reduced Aboriginal employment opportunities, and caused a conspicuous drop in the employment rate. Concurrent with these economic changes, the government launched an effort to actively promote domestic tourism. With ever more convenient transportation networks, tourists flooded into the Hualien region restaurants of different styles began to enter and local culinary habits started to change accordingly. Also, the advent of food industry giants such as McDonald’s brought about the mass production of dishes, the homogenization of global flavors, and the disappearance of local ingredients or traditional courses. No culinary culture worldwide is spared from this erosion. As this global process occurs, people began to yearn for simpler, more natural lives. Driven by these circumstances, culinary cultures around the world began to push for a “return to nature” and a “LOHAS” lifestyle, emphasizing on natural, healthy, and simple culinary principles.
This trend was picked up and advocated by Taiwanese consumers too and in the process, Aboriginal cooking was brought into the spotlight. The culinary culture of Taiwanese Aboriginals, marked by local ingredients, natural and simple flavoring, and easy cooking, was exactly the natural and wholesome recipe that the urbanites were seeking for. Combined with the rise of worldwide aboriginal movements, tourism flourished for the Aboriginal tribes in Taiwan. With these trends in mind, the evolution and revolution of Aboriginal cuisine in the ethnically diverse region of Hualien is therefore an emerging subject worthy of attention.
After coming into power in 2000, the Democratic Progressive Party emphasized the “localization” of Taiwanese culture. Under that policy, the government hosted many Aboriginal culinary competitions, and even included some Aboriginal dishes on state banquets menus. Caught in the middle of a fad for natural and healthful diet, can the natural and simple ethos of Aboriginal cuisine survive, or will it lose its distinctiveness under greatly increased demand? Can traditional culinary culture be preserved?
This study aims to discuss the traditional cuisine of the Amis Tribe, its ecological environment, and its market adaptation. The goal is to understand and identify through case studies the following:
1.The essential characters of Amis cuisine.
2.The effect of Amis cuisine on modern cuisine
3.The cultures of other tribes that affect the Amis cuisine culture.
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