[ 摘要 ]

本研究由衣飾的生產與消費，觀察當代排灣族人如何藉由物的流動進行社會關係的再生產，並建構階序及身份認同的社會過程，在這個觀察的基礎上討論衣飾的文化意義的象徵變遷與社會過程。

衣飾是排灣族社會傳統上區分階序地位的依據；透過衣飾上圖紋與家系地位、神話傳說的神聖性相連結，人們得以穿著展現地位的正當性。傳統衣飾與名字、雕刻一樣，可被視為與社會關係不可分離的寶物（inalienable wealth），一般是被家系傳承掌握而不輕易交換或流通，並以此建立其權威的正當性。同時也使寶物具有超乎物質的存在，進而成為界定人的媒介。

當代因為社會變遷，逐漸出現平民頻繁地使用頭目家系圖紋的現象，與此現象相伴隨的是貴族名字的流通頻繁與愈加普遍。其流通管道並不僅限於儀式交換的過程，大量的商業生產消費亦為取得的主要途徑。影響所及則是貴族與平民區分的機制表面上看來是消弭了。

這篇論文主要探討當代變遷過程中，服飾生產與消費面向上所展現的頭目—平民階序關係變化，並試圖進一步探索社會階序關係的基礎所在。論文則內容包括：一、社會內部如何運用服飾的物質性與符號，進行群體間的交換，從而再生產社會階序。二、衣飾由以往家戶內生產，轉變為跨國分工商業生產的過程變化，對於衣飾價值機制與社會關係的影響。三、當代改良服飾出現對於傳統服飾的繼承與衝擊。

[ 英文摘要 ]

Clothing is a traditional means of differentiating hierarchy in Paiwan society. Designs of clothing are connected with holiness of households and mythology; with them people demonstrate their legitimacy. Like sculpture and names, clothing is regarded as an inalienable wealth. It is beyond substance and functions as a medium for defining humanity. Paiwan clothing is held by individual families and handed down within. Exchange or circulation is rare in order to sustain legitimacy of social status.



Nowadays atitan adopts mamazakinlan’s designs and names more frequently. Ritual exchange is not the only means of circulating them. It is the commercial production of Paiwan clothing that increases the availability of mamazakinlan’s designs. As a result, the distinction between atitan and mamazakinlan appears reduced.



Discussing production and consumption of clothing, this thesis illustrates a hierarchical change of contemporary Paiwan society, and the foundation of this hierarchy. The first section explores how Paiwan people manipulate symbolism and materiality of clothing in process of exchange, and how clothing reproduces hierarchy. The second section records how household production of clothing transformed into a commercial, transnational enterprise, and how this change influences values of clothing and Paiwan social relation. The third one illuminates how the emergence of contemporary Paiwan clothing inherits from as well as impacts upon classic one.